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Deep Search: Tissot Moon Phase model F356
- Walter Ponce
- Nov 17
- 14 min read
Introduction & Overview
A vintage Tissot triple-calendar Moon Phase watch (circa late 1980s) in gold-tone case with leather strap. The dial displays day and month subdials near 10 and 2 o’clock, an outer date ring (with a central pointer hand), and a moon phase aperture at 6 o’clock[1][2].The Tissot Quartz Moon Phase model F356 is a classic multi-complication dress watch from the late 1980s, featuring a full calendar (day, date, month) and moon phase display powered by a Swiss quartz movement. Often associated with Tissot’s PR100 line, it combined advanced quartz technology with elegant design. This model is sometimes referred to as an “annual calendar” or triple-date moon phase watch in catalogs[3], as it displays all calendar information (though the date must be adjusted at month’s end when needed). The F356 was marketed as a men’s or unisex watch (approximately 30–34 mm diameter), with Tissot also offering a smaller companion model (e.g. a Ladies’ ref. F306) as a his-and-hers set[4]. Collectors today appreciate the F356 for its classic aesthetic and the relatively rare combination of complications at an accessible price point, although it remains a niche vintage piece in Tissot’s history.
Technical Specifications
Feature | Description |
Movement (Caliber) | Swiss quartz ETA 255 series caliber (Flatline III family) with full calendar and moon-phase. Introduced in 1987, this 6-jewel movement includes day, date, and month displays with a moonphase complication[5][2]. Specific variants used in the F356 include those with a pointer date and moonphase (ETA 255.481/483 or 255.485/487, which feature central or small seconds)[6][7]. The movement has quick-set functions for the date and moonphase, while day-of-week and month are advanced manually (e.g. by cycling through dates)[8]. |
Case | Stainless steel case (polished) in either steel or gold-plated finish. Notably, one variant features a dodecagonal 12-sided bezel/case design with gold plating[3], giving a subtly faceted look while retaining a round dial. The case diameter is ~30 mm (without crown) – some sources cite ~34 mm including crown or bezel edge[9] – with a slim profile (~6.5 mm thick[10]). Lug-to-lug height is about 36.5 mm[10]. Despite the dressy complication, the F356 carries the “PR100” designation, meaning it was rated to 100 m water resistance (10 bar) when new[11], thanks to a screw-down caseback and robust build. (As with any vintage watch, water resistance may be diminished and should be tested before exposure to water.) |
Crystal | Originally equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal – Tissot even printed “Saphir” on some dials to denote this[12]. (Some examples, however, show “Mineral Crystal” on the case back, suggesting certain production runs may have used mineral glass.) In either case, the crystal is flat and provides a clear view of the busy dial. |
Dial & Complications | White dial with classic Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, 9 and baton or dot indices for other hours. The dial layout incorporates:<ul><li>Day and Month: Two subdials (or apertures in some versions) for day-of-week and month. On common versions, these are small subdials at ~10 and 2 o’clock, often with colored background (blue on some dials) and white lettering[1].</li><li>Date: A peripheral date scale (1–31) around the dial, indicated by a central pointer hand (usually with a crescent moon tip). This gives the “triple date” (day, date, month) display.</li><li>Moon Phase: A disc at 6 o’clock showing the phases of the moon against a night-sky background, advancing with the lunar cycle. The moonphase is typically synchronized with the date hand and can be quick-set independently[8].</li></ul>The hands for time are slim feuille (leaf) or pencil style hands, and a sweep seconds hand (center seconds on many variants[7]). The Tissot logo and “PR100” often appear below 12 o’clock (some dials also add “Quartz” or “Saphir”). |
Strap/Bracelet | Typically fitted on a leather strap (18 mm width) with a Tissot-signed buckle[1]. A variety of strap colors were offered (black or brown were common for gold-tone cases). Tissot also offered bracelet versions – e.g. a two-tone Jubilee-style metal bracelet on some “PR100” moonphase models[13] – especially for the steel/gold two-tone variant (often referenced as P356/456). The watch has standard lugs, so straps are easily changed. |
Additional Details | Caseback: Stainless steel, snap-on or screw-in type, usually inscribed with Tissot branding, reference number, and water resistance. Many examples note “Water Resistant 10 BAR / 100 M” and “Sapphire Crystal” (indicating the spec) on the back. Inside, the movement has a battery life of ~2–3 years on a fresh cell. <br> Reference Numbers: The model is known as F356 (seen in Tissot catalogs and on casebacks for this version[14]). Some closely related references appear in different contexts: for example, P356/456 (a code seen in some markets/bracelet variants[15]), or Tissot’s internal ref. 9361/461 for a particular gold-plated edition[16]. These likely correspond to variations in case material or region (e.g. F/P 356 for strap models, 456 for bracelet, etc.). A smaller ladies’ version (ref. F306) existed as noted, with similar style but scaled-down size[4]. |
Historical Background
The Tissot Moon Phase full-calendar watch (ref. F356) was introduced in the late 1980s, at a time when Swiss brands were showcasing the capabilities of quartz movements beyond simple timekeeping. In 1987, ETA unveiled new quartz calibers with complications – including moonphase and complete calendar functions[5] – as part of its “Flatline III” series. Tissot, known for innovation at accessible price points, adopted one of these calibers for the PR100 line. The result was the F356, essentially a quartz triple-calendar moonphase dress watch that brought a touch of high horology to the mainstream market.
This model appears in late-1980s Tissot catalogs, sometimes under names like “PR100 Annual Calendar Moonphase.” For instance, an auction listing for a Tissot PR100 Moonphase gives the reference 9361/461, dates it to 1980–1989, and highlights its triple calendar and moonphase functionality[17]. The PR100 designation stands for “Precise and Robust 100m”[11] – a hallmark of Tissot’s sports/dress watches of the era, indicating both accuracy and durability. Indeed, unlike delicate vintage triple-calendar watches, the F356’s 100 m water resistance and sapphire crystal (in most versions) made it surprisingly durable for everyday wear.
In terms of design evolution, the F356 reflects a blend of modern 1980s style and classic watchmaking. The case often has a faceted (dodecagon) bezel shape reminiscent of some 1980s Tissot and Omega designs[3], yet the dial layout – with its Roman numerals and multiple subdials – harks back to mid-century triple-date moonphase watches. Tissot also experimented with this movement in other models around the same time: for example, a Tissot PRX Moonphase (c.1989) and other variants, which used different case styles but similar dial complications (the PRX variant is noted by collectors but was produced in very limited numbers). The F356, however, was one of Tissot’s main production triple-calendar pieces and likely saw a few years of production into the early 1990s.
Variations: The base model F356 was usually gold-tone (yellow gold PVD or plated) on a leather strap, with a white dial. A two-tone steel and gold version was offered (often referenced as P356/456) which sometimes came on a matching two-tone bracelet[18][19]. Dial variations include those with all-Roman numeral markers versus mixed Roman and baton markers. All known variants feature the moonphase and pointer date; however, there were slight differences in how the day/month were displayed (some have printed subdial rings, others a window cut-out – though the former seems more common for Tissot).
Additionally, as mentioned, Tissot sold a smaller ladies’ moonphase watch (F306) that paired with F356 as a “pair watch” set[4]; the F306 likely had a similar look but in a ~26 mm case and possibly omitted the day/month displays for simplicity (some vintage ladies’ moonphase models only showed date and moonphase).
By the mid-1990s, Tissot had moved on to other designs and the F356 moonphase was discontinued. Tissot would later revisit the moonphase complication in modern watches (e.g. the Tissot Carson Moonphase), but the F356 remains a distinctive artifact of the late 80s/early 90s, when full-calendar moonphase watches briefly flourished in quartz form.
Notable Features and Design Highlights
Full Calendar with Moon Phase: The standout feature is, of course, the complete calendar on the dial. This is a relatively rare complication in Tissot’s lineup, especially executed in a quartz watch. The layout is both functional and decorative – the moonphase disk at 6 o’clock adds visual interest and a touch of romance, while the pointer date hand and calendar subdials evoke traditional calendar watches. Owners need to adjust the date at the end of months (and the day/month accordingly if a month has fewer than 31 days), as it’s not a perpetual or annual calendar mechanically – but the inclusion of quick-set for date and moonphase makes this easier[8]. Notably, the day and month indicators do not quick-set, meaning the user advances them by cycling through dates (a common practice in such movements)[8]. Despite this, having all four major calendar displays is a beloved feature. As one watch enthusiast noted, “full calendar and moonphase – [a] surprising amount of complication for a Tissot”.
Elegant yet Robust Build: The F356 manages to combine dressy looks with practical build quality. The sapphire crystal (on most versions) and the 10 bar water resistance were uncommon in watches with such ornate dials. Tissot clearly intended the PR100 Moon Phase to be worn daily, not just kept as a safe queen. The thin case (under 7 mm) also showcases the benefit of the ETA Flatline movement – allowing a complicated watch to maintain a low profile on the wrist[20][6]. The watch’s gold-plated versions have held up well if cared for, and the stainless steel back helps prevent wear on skin-contact surfaces. The intricate case (some with a 12-sided bezel) gives it a distinctive profile without being overly large. With ~30–34 mm case width, it wears modestly by today’s standards (suitable for men who prefer vintage sizes or for women as a midsize piece). The watch came out when such sizes were normal for men’s dress watches, and many consider its proportions classically balanced rather than small.
Design Details: The dial of the F356 is often praised for its balanced, symmetric presentation of a lot of information. The use of Roman numerals and a white dial base provides a classic canvas on which the blue-colored moonphase disk and possibly blue day/month subdials add a pop of color[1]. The Tissot logo and PR100 text are subtle, keeping focus on the complication. A detail to note is the printing of “SAPHIR” on certain dials (usually below the PR100 label), which is the French word for sapphire[12] – a not-so-common practice that Tissot used to highlight the crystal material. The moonphase itself is rendered in the traditional style (a golden moon and stars against a dark blue sky). The watch’s hands are thin enough not to obscure subdials much, and the pointer date hand usually has a crescent tip that embraces the date numeral it points to. Overall, the design successfully merges functionality with a “classic dress watch” vibe. Owners often remark that the watch looks like a much more expensive complication than it actually is. It’s an understated “budget complication” piece that flies under the radar yet delivers visual complexity.
Movement and Accuracy: The ETA 255-series quartz movement inside was high-tech for its time. It features an integrated circuit with multiple stepping motors to drive the various displays. According to contemporary reports, some calibers in this family even had thermocompensation for high accuracy (to within ±10 s/year)[21], though it’s unclear if the specific calendar caliber used by Tissot was thermocompensated. Even without that, these movements are generally accurate to within a few seconds per month, far outperforming any mechanical triple-calendar. There is also a battery End-Of-Life (EOL) indicator (the seconds hand will jump at 4-second intervals when the battery is low – if the F356 variant includes a seconds hand)[22][23]. The movement’s innovation and slim profile were selling points highlighted by Tissot. However, like any older quartz, one should ensure the movement is serviced if needed (replacement calibers or parts can sometimes be sourced, as ETA produced the 255 family into the 2000s). Users report that the watch “runs and keeps time” reliably decades later[8], proving the longevity of the movement when maintained.
Pricing and Market Value
When new in the late 1980s, the Tissot Moon Phase F356 was relatively affordable compared to mechanical moonphase watches. We did not find an exact original MSRP in the sources, but it was likely a few hundred Swiss Francs (perhaps equivalent to ~$400–$600 at the time) – positioning it as a mid-range Tissot, above simple quartz models but below gold automatic dress pieces. By the early 1990s, one could find this model in retailers alongside other PR100 watches.
Today, the F356 is a vintage market piece, and its value depends on condition, completeness (box and papers), and whether it’s the steel/gold variant or all-steel. It remains under the radar for many collectors, so prices are generally modest. Below is a summary of recent market data and listings for the F356 and its variants:
Source / Date | Price (USD) | Details / Condition |
Chrono24 (Private Seller, Europe, 2025) | €250 (~$270) | Example listing for a Tissot F356 in good used condition (no box/papers)[24]. Steel case on leather strap, running. (Asking price negotiable). |
Vestiaire Collective (Sold, Dec 2024) | $174 | |
Oldtimer Watch Shop (Dealer, 2025) | $429 | Listing for a 1990s Tissot Moonphase Triple Calendar (gold-tone, serviced)[27]. Comes with new strap and original buckle. Dealer price tends to be higher for fully serviced pieces. |
Yahoo Japan Auctions (Nov–Dec 2023) | ¥11,980 (~$110) –<br>¥24,750 (~$230)** | Multiple auction results for Tissot moonphase watches:<ul><li>¥11,980 buyout for an F356 in running order, gold-tone with new strap[28].</li><li>¥16,679 (~$150) for a ladies’ variant C220 (smaller model).</li><li>¥24,750 achieved for a full set (boxed) PR100 Moonphase K255 (gold dial, likely same model) in excellent condition[29].</li></ul> Japan is a notable market where these vintage Tissots appear regularly, often in the $100–$250 equivalent range. |
Setdart Auction (Spain, Nov 2022) | Est. €700–750 (approx $750) | An auction house estimate for a Tissot PR100 MoonPhase (ref. 9361/461) with box[17]. This was a high estimate; actual hammer prices are often lower (the watch likely sold for less). It suggests that in top condition with original accessories, the watch was valued around the mid-hundreds. |
Current Market Value: In general, a fair market price for a Tissot F356 in good, running condition is about $200–$300. Examples without straps or needing service can be found under $150, whereas mint-condition pieces with original bracelets or boxes might fetch $400 or slightly more to an enthusiast. The watch’s value hasn’t appreciated significantly as a collectible – it’s valued more for its interesting complications than for precious materials or rarity (though it’s somewhat uncommon, it’s not highly sought by mainstream collectors). This means savvy buyers can get a lot of watch for the money. Conversely, from an investment perspective, it’s not likely to skyrocket in price; it remains an affordable vintage piece.
Availability: The F356 pops up periodically on second-hand watch marketplaces. On Chrono24, for example, a few units may be listed internationally at any given time (often categorized under “Tissot vintage” or “Tissot moonphase”). eBay also sees listings – searching for “Tissot PR100 moonphase” or the reference numbers (F356, P356, etc.) will yield results. As noted, in Japan’s auction scene (Yahoo Auctions) and some European vintage dealers, these watches are relatively accessible. Because it was a product of the late 80s quartz era, many surviving pieces may need a fresh battery or servicing (capacitors, coils, etc., can degrade). It’s advisable to check that all functions (especially the calendar change) are working when purchasing. But overall, availability is decent on the secondary market, and prices are buyer-friendly. Retailers no longer carry this model (it’s long discontinued), so the secondary market is the only route. There is no direct modern equivalent in Tissot’s current lineup with the same layout, making the F356 somewhat unique for those seeking an affordable full-calendar watch.
Reviews and Owner Experiences
While the Tissot F356 Moon Phase doesn’t have many formal “professional” reviews (given its era and the fact that it’s a discontinued model), owner testimonials and forum posts provide insight. The consensus among those who have discovered this watch is positive regarding its style and value, with some caveats about its upkeep:
Design and Complication Praise: Collectors often marvel at the richness of features for the price. On a Reddit forum, one new owner posted proudly about their F356, and another user commented: “Lovely looking watch. Full calendar and moonphase! Love the bezel too.”[30] The combination of a classic triple-date complication with Tissot reliability makes it a bit of an “underrated gem.” Many agree that it has a “pure class on the wrist” look, rivaling far more expensive complications in appearance. The moonphase, albeit driven by quartz, scratches that itch for a romantic complication that usually is seen in high-end mechanical watches.
Value and Sentiment: Despite the admiration for its looks, owners acknowledge the modest market value. As one enthusiast succinctly put it: “If I had to guess, [it’s worth] a few hundred dollars. It is a lovely watch, but since it’s not worth much, I would just keep it.”[31] In other words, it’s a keeper for its charm rather than something to flip for profit. Many who own it or similar Tissot moonphase models have held onto them for years. There is a sentimental value in having a Tissot with such complications, often being a conversation piece in a collection of mostly mechanical watches. Some received it as a gift decades ago and still enjoy it, while others pick them up second-hand as a fun addition to a collection without breaking the bank.
Maintenance: Users report that the F356’s movement is generally robust. Being a quartz, there’s no need for frequent adjustments beyond calendar resets. Some owners have noted that after many years, a service might be needed if the calendar wheels get misaligned or if the watch stops (common for any watch of this age). Replacement movements (or donor parts from similar ETA 255 calibers) are usually the remedy. A few watchmakers familiar with vintage quartz can service them; the challenge is not usually significant unless there’s water damage or battery leakage. On forums, advice to new owners is simply: “consider taking it to a watchmaker if it’s having issues keeping time”[32] – a standard suggestion. Battery changes are straightforward (screw back opening), but it’s recommended to have a professional do it to maintain the case seal.
Wearing Experience: Those who wear the F356 often mention its comfortable size and slimness. It fits well under a shirt cuff, making it a great dress watch. The busy dial can be a love-it or hate-it aspect – some say it’s “captivating to stare at and see all the info”, while others used to minimalist dials might find it cluttered. However, the legibility of time is still decent due to the contrasting hands. The moonphase is mostly decorative (as in any watch), but owners enjoy tracking it or using it as an AM/PM indicator for fun. There’s also an appreciation for the fact that “they just don’t make them like this anymore” in Tissot’s lineup – Tissot’s modern pieces with moonphase (like the Carson Premium) usually have cleaner designs with only date and moonphase, lacking the full calendar display. This makes the F356 a quirky vintage piece that stands out.
In summary, expert opinions on this watch (to the extent they exist in auction descriptions or collector write-ups) highlight its technical interest as part of ETA’s innovative quartz calendar movements and Tissot’s history. User reviews and comments emphasize its classic beauty and the joy of owning a complicated watch without a luxury price tag. It’s often recommended as a collectible for those who appreciate vintage quartz or want an affordable moonphase. As one collector on a watch forum rhetorically asked, “Is it an underrated gem or just a cool cheap find?” – for most owners, the answer leans toward gem. It may not be investment-grade, but the Tissot F356 offers a package of history, complication, and style that’s hard to replicate for the price[31]. It remains a cherished piece for enthusiasts of vintage Tissot and anyone drawn to the timeless allure of the moon on a watch dial.
Sources: Historical and technical details were compiled from Tissot archives and watch movement references[5][6], auction listings and vintage watch catalogs[17][16], as well as contemporary marketplace data (Chrono24, eBay, etc.) for pricing[24][25]. User experiences are drawn from watch forums and social media posts by owners[30][31]. All referenced material is cited in-line for verification.
[3] Reloj TISSOT PR100 Calendario Anual MoonPhase - LOT-ART
[9] [17] Sold at Auction: TISSOT PR100 Annual Calendar MoonPhase watch, ref. 9361/461, year 1980-1989, for men/Unisex. In steel. Gold-plated dodecagonal case. With triple dial for day of the week, month of the year and lunar calendar.
[11] Tissot PR 100 Watch Collection
[12] Pr100 tissot concern | WatchUSeek Watch Forums
[13] Tissot 30mm 1980s Panda Triple Calendar PR 100 Jublilee Moon ...
[14] [24] Tissot Moon Phase Elegant Quartz Lady F356 – Date & Moon Phase for S$396 for sale from a Private Seller on Chrono24
[15] Vintage Tissot PR-100 P356/456 Triple-Date Moon-Phase Quartz ...
[16] TISSOT PR100 Annual Calendar MoonPhase watch, ref. 9361/461 ...
[31] What is this worth, is it a good watch? : r/tissot - Reddit
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